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Head to Head - Scotland's Biggest Cities - Edinburgh and GlasgowScotland's two biggest cities Edinburgh and Glasgow are doing all they can to improve and promote their attractions to secure an edge over the other. Kim Smith explored both during her Scottish sojourn. Edinburgh – filled with 15 th Century buildings, Georgian mansions, and architecture that extends from ancient churches to monumental Victorian masterpieces, and a swanky fairytale castle that gloats on a precipitous peak in the heart of the Scottish capital. Glasgow – harder to define, but equally intriguing. Once a city of tenements, drug addicts and street crime, but now a contemporary design-conscious gateway to the Scottish Highlands, and one of Europe's major art, culture and education hubs. Locals in Glasgow are quick to tell me their revamped metropolis is now winning hands-down over its old antagonist, Edinburgh, in the popularity ratings. But after exploring the culture and attractions of each city, I decided to sit on the fence in regards to my favoured destination, deeming each to be unique and appealing in its own right. I converged on vibrant Edinburgh last August, the month said to provide the best climate of the year, but not necessarily in regard to the weather. The month-long Edinburgh International Festival emanated an energy-filled warmth as venues across the city heaved with theatre, music, dance, film and art, attracting a cosmopolitan melange of worldwide visitors. Costumed groups and individuals – amateur and professional – provided a decorative surprise around every corner and some even comically chased you to the next one. As far as monuments go, the majestic Castle is to Edinburgh what the Eiffel Tower is to Paris – a mass-money-generating tourist hit. The very sight of its commanding structure is captivating and behind the iron gates rest riches of Scottish history and possessions from the past. From the Royal apartments - which include a tiny room where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to a boy, who later became King James IV of Scotland - to the Scottish national war memorial, added after the first prisoners of war were held in the 18 th and 19 th centuries. A more boisterous feature of the castle is the One O'clock Gun. Likely to make you jump if a kind local hasn't warned you of its boisterous bang, the gun is fired from the castle everyday except Sunday and can be heard from every crevice in the city. It has been a recognised custom in Edinburgh and startling tourists since 1861.
Following a night out on the tartan town, which included taking in a comedy show and a few pints in a Scottish pub, I relished in some much-needed sleep (my Scotland-bound flight had inconveniently, but cheaply departed London at 5am). The next day I awoke fresh and ready to uncover more Edinburgh enigma. I decided to attempt to climb to the top of an 823-foot-high volcanic plug, otherwise known as Arthur's Seat, which was situated in Holyrood Park, originally a Royal hunting estate. Getting to the top of the imposing mountain - extinct for more than 350 million years - involved an element of rock-climbing and required a sweatband to sponge the perspiration but, after an hour of mountaineering, a 360-degree view overlooking the countryside, the entire city and the sea to the east, created a more than satisfying reward. And the clamber proved to be the perfect tonic for the overindulgence in festivities the night before. I also saw Scotland's newest Parliament building – at the foot of Arthur's Seat and nearby Holyrod Park – and wondered if its bold modern design belonged in a city resplendent with yesteryear perseverance. After some pub grub and amber ales, I bid farewell to Edinburgh and boarded a train to Glasgow, only an hour rail-ride away. Due to my 10pm arrival my first insight into Glasgow after checking into the hostel revolved around the pub and club scene… The following day I wanted to get a full day of sightseeing and guessed that the best way to do this was by bus as Glasgow is a generous grid of streets, comparable to Manhattan. Scotland's second city (as Edinburgh locals referred to it!) had a plethora of alluring attractions, many of which required no entry charge – great for the budget traveller. First stop was Glasgow Harbour, where the tall ship ‘Glenlee' – one of five remaining Clydebuilt sailing ships that remain afloat in the world – is proudly positioned. Built in 1896, the ship had recently been privy to a seven-year restoration and is a first-class floating exhibit. You don't have to be a sailing enthusiast to enjoy reading about the former bulk cargo carrier's globe-gliding history, from its Australian voyages to when it was laid up and forgotten about in Seville Harbour, Florida, where it sank due to vandalism. But if this doesn't sound like it would float your boat and you're more green thumb inclined, an idle stroll around the Botanical Gardens - which date back to 1817 and has a colourful celebration of orchids, ferns and begonias – will delight. Cultural buffs will also no doubt, relish in Glasgow's major galleries and museums. The two most distinguished include The People's Palace, a Victorian red-sandstone building which charts the history of the city as seen through the generations who have lived there; and the Burrell Collection in Pollock Country Park, which houses an idiosyncratic collection of Chinese porcelain, medieval furniture and impressionist paintings in an exquisite building with carved Romanesque doorways, stained glass windows and ancient stonework. And, lastly, there is lively George Square in the city centre; the natural amphitheatre for concerts, demonstrations, a life size nativity scene at Christmas and local larrakins to be mischievous - there are 12 statues dotted in the square, including Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, and teenage Glasgwegians constantly climb the statues armed with orange witches' hats to place atop their carefully-carved craniums. It keeps the Police busy and onlookers entertained. I ended up slumbering in Glasgow for an extra night because I missed boarding time for my flight at 9.45pm (my pleas and excuses fell on deaf ears at the airport!). After debating whether to hire a car, catch a morning flight or catch the train, I returned to the hostel, deciding to worry about it in the morning. A good night's sleep was interrupted at 5am by the whine of fire alarms. Picture the mayhem of hundreds of people, some non-English speaking, barrelling down flights of stairs and onto the footpath, demanding to know what was going on, where the fire was, how did it start… An hour later, the firemen declared it to be a false alarm and everyone was welcome to return to their rooms. After a few more hours sleep, I was sitting on a London-bound fast train and five hours and ninety quid later, arrived home, four hours late for work! But the adventurous trip to Scotland demonstrated why Edinburgh, with it merging of ancient and modern, and Glasgow, with its enlightening free-spirit and urban chaos, are two of the most desirable European cities to visit and a breath of fresh air from polluted London!
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