I was ushered through customs with disarming Creole charm. There are no visas required, visitors permits are issued at the airport, and are valid for one month. The government does however curb the number of visitors a year in order to reduce environmental impact. Prices are therefore reassuringly expensive.

Seychellois possess a nonchalant joie de vivre. Asian, African and European elements blend to form a potent Creole concoction- so local legend informs me. After a few hours of walking through streets in my sarong, reciprocating the ' Bounzoors' from passers-by I felt as if I had become manifest as a quintessential islander.

Flatteringly, I was often mistaken for a local, which opened the door to lavish Creole hospitality. Although Seychellois principally speak Creole- a mixture of French and African languages most locals are fluent in English. Guides are available from hotels and resorts but at a heavy price. I was lucky to be getting a tour of the capital city, Victoria in return for a few sheepish smiles.

These islands are particularly safe for woman travellers although I suspect that islanders do not treat their local women with the same courtesy. I stayed in a relatively cheap guesthouse, the rule of thumb being that the smaller they are, the more charming and friendly. My guesthouse was in need of some repair, but put this down to its location and the cheap price.

Mahé Island

Beaches

Mahe has more than 70 beaches, each with its own character. Beau Vallon serves up the perfect experience.-a three kilometre stretch of white sands with crystal clear waters. It gets very busy though, and in my view the main tourist area. The smaller beaches may be preferred if you're a loner.

However, this is no place to be lonely or recovering over heartache. Two days into my visit I watched two fellow passengers get married barefoot on the beach. I later discovered that many hotels and resorts have wedding packages which in one convenient fee include all legal processing, registrar fee and decoration. A spectacular wedding and honeymoon destination if you are so inclined.

Fish and Fruit Market

In the capital, Victoria, the fish and fruit market displays endless varieties of fruit you've never seen. But don't count on bargains, a pound of lychees can easily set you back £5. The locals may not be inclined to haggle as there exists a steady stream of tourists to purchase their wares.

Treasure Hunt

Mahé is reputedly a treasure island and one of the interesting sites is the treasure dig on the west side of Bel Ombre. Local legend has it that a French Pirate nicknamed The Buzzard, ( La Buse) buried his treasure there. Although nothing significant has been found besides a few silver coins, local and tourists still go to the site to challenge their already good fortune.

Cerf Island

Fifteen minutes by boat from Mahé, this small island appears as an apparition in its surreal and lush unspoilt beauty. Dazzling white beaches sparkle like diamonds in a crown. On the north side of the island are superb coral reefs. Here giant tortoises swim with clown fish. Diving centres are plentiful on the main island and snorkelling equipment is available for hire at most hotels and boat companies. Rumour has it that the island is not only home to the fruit bat but also home to celebrated South African novelist Wilbur Smith.

La Digue Island

This small island is 3 hours by boat from Mahé and is several centuries behind Mahé .Ox carts are the primary means of transportation, which can take the visitor past old plantation houses, a vanilla plantation, a copra factory and, of course, the incomparable pink rocked beaches. The wild, deserted beaches are excellent for safe swimming, snorkelling and fishing. Possibly the best mode of transportation for tourists on La Digue is bicycles.

I found the roads to be uneven probably due to the ox hooves and carts. Most roads are still unpaved. I went in a small group of young tourists who I had met at the guest house, I felt blissfully suspended in the 17 th Century, as we peddled under shady canopies of heavy trees. Sunset on the beach was a kaleidoscope of colour- the last embers of the day disappearing behind a tranquil ocean; pink rocks shining a reply to the sun; white coral and the emerald green plantations in the background.

Altogether this trip set me pack a packet, it definitely is one of the highlights of my trip. I had travelled to handsome Cape Town for two weeks before embarking on extending my holiday to the Seychelles. However, this destination was the Utopian getaway from my getaway. n

SPOT TIPS

•  Locals are helpful and most speak English

•  Take shoes for swimming in shallow water

•  April/May is the best time for underwater visibility

•  La Digue island is best bet for Budget Travel

Bianca Abrahams